How to Growing melons watermelon ,cantaloupe, , honeydew

Melons are members of the cucurbit family, which includes pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers, summer squash and winter squash. Being closely related, melons have similar growth requirements, however they will not cross-pollinate with cucumbers, squash or pumpkins.

Melon quality is a function of the sugar content of the fruit. High sugar content is achieved by avoiding all stress during the growing season. Stress comes from foliar diseases, insect pests, weeds, poor nutrition, and excesses or lack of water.

Planting

Melons prefer hot, sunny locations with fertile, well drained soils, and can be either transplanted or direct seeded. Transplanting can add 2 to 4 weeks to the growing season, but melons are particularly sensitive to root disturbance and growth will be retarded if transplants are not properly managed.

Seeding

Melon seeds germinate optimally between 70 and 90 degrees F but can be sown when the soil temperature is above 65 degrees F. Planting in cooler soil favors soil borne root diseases which can decimate or stunt melons which are cold intolerant. An average planting date is a week to 10 days before the historic frost free date. This is approximately May 20 in Minnesota but will vary depending on your latitude.

Plant the seeds ½ to 1 inch deep. Plant 2 to 3 seeds in groups 18 to 24 inches apart within the row and later thin to the best plant per group. Space rows 5 to 6 feet apart.

Transplanting

Sow seed indoors at the end of April, about 2 to 4 weeks prior to the transplant date. Transplants should have 2-3 mature leaves and a well developed root system when they are moved into the garden. Plant the seeds in peat pots or other biodegradable containers that can be placed directly into garden soils. This will help avoid root disturbance and damage. Damaged roots in seedling transplants slow establishment and growth. Plant the potted seedlings 2 feet apart through plastic mulch for early maturity.

Row covers

The use of plastic tunnels and fabric covers can protect seedlings and transplants from cool air temperatures and early insect pests. Covers can increase temperature around the plant and will stop pollinating insects from reaching the flowers. Remove covers once fear of frost has passed to avoid high temperature plant injury and to allow bees and other pollinators easy access to the flowers.

Cantaloupe plants can be grown in small gardens by training the plant to a fence or trellis. After the fruits begin to enlarge they will need support or the fruit weight may damage the vines!

Soil pH and fertility

Muskmelons grow best on well-drained, sandy loam soils with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5. Soils with a pH less than 6.0 will produce plants with yellowed foliage and fewer perfect flowers. If drainage is a problem, plant in 6 to 8 inch high beds. Before adding any compost, manure, or fertilizer, have your soil tested (see Understanding Your Soil Test Report) to determine your soil’s pH and whether it should be amended.

You can also improve both heavy clay soils and lighter sandy soils by adding organic matter. Addition of manure or compost is beneficial for vine crops and improves soil structure. Plow or till well-rotted manure and fertilizer into the soil before planting. If you use manure or compost, additional fertilizer applications may be reduced or eliminated, depending on how much organic matter you apply. Do not use “Weed and Feed” type fertilizers on vegetables. They contain weed killers that will kill vegetable plants.

Timely and appropriate applications of fertilizer can make a significant difference in the quality and quantity of fruit and may promote earlier harvests.

Mulches

Plastic mulch warms the soil, conserves water, helps to control weeds, allows earlier planting and maturity, and reduces ground rot of the fruit. The use of transplants with plastic mulch generally results in harvests that begin 7 to 14 days earlier as compared to growing melons on bare ground. To get the benefits of plastic mulch, proper installation is critical. First lay drip irrigation or a soaker hose on the soil. Be sure to offset the drip tape 2 to 3 inches from the center of the bed. Further maximize the benefits of plastic mulch by installing it over raised beds. Lay the plastic mulch during the hottest part of the day and make sure that the mulch is stretched tight over the soil without any wrinkles. Lay the plastic, secure the edges with soil on each side of the raised bed, and cut holes for the seeds or transplants. When using plastic mulches and row covers, seeds or plants can be set out about 2 weeks before the last frost date.

Organic mulches like woodchips or straw can also be used when growing melons, but do not apply organic mulches until soils are warmer than 75°F.

Controlling weeds

Frequent, shallow cultivation will kill weeds before they become a problem. The roots of melons are close to the surface of the soil, so it is important not to cultivate too deeply or too close to the plants. Cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface of the soil. Continue cultivating as long as you can do so without injuring the vines, usually when the vines begin to spread between the rows. When cultivation is no longer possible, pull large weeds by hand.

Watering

Water deeply and infrequently, 1-2 inches per week. Use drip irrigation if possible. Mulch around the plant will conserve soil moisture and reduce weed growth. Always soak the soil thoroughly when watering. There is little or no value in a light watering that only wets the surface of the soil. Reduce watering amount as the fruits ripen to improve flavor. Even watering is extremely important especially in the last 2 weeks of growth. Excessive watering at this stage can cause the fruits to split.

 Pollination and flower types

Cucumbers, squash, pumpkin and watermelon have separate male and female flowers. Cantaloupe (muskmelon) has two flower types, male flowers and complete flowers (having both male and female parts). Cantaloupe flowers have a pollination window of one day. Pollen must be transferred from the male flower to the female flower on this day for seed set and fruit development. Fruit size and shape are related to the number of seeds set. Poorly pollinated flowers either abort or produce misshapen fruit.

Harvest and storage

Cantaloupe requires 35-45 days to mature from flowering, depending on the temperature. As the fruit matures the skin surface netting gets coarse and rough, the background color of the fruit turns from green to yellow,the surface color becomes dull, and the tendrils near the fruit (which look like curly strings) on the stem dry and turn brown.

Harvest the fruits by twisting the fruit at which point it will separate from the vine. Do not wait for the melons to separate from the vine on their own. At full maturity and peak flavor the stem breaks (slips) away from the vine easily. This stage is called “full slip.” Commercial melons are harvested at "1/2 to 3/4 slip" to reduce shipping damage. This removes the fruit before it has reached maximum sugar content, and sugar content will not increase after harvest. This opportunity to harvest at maximum ripeness is one of the advantages of growing your own melons. Pick melons as they ripen as they will not all ripen at the same time. Cantaloupe will store for 1-2 weeks if held at 45-50°F.

Identifying ripe watermelon and honeydew melons is more difficult as most of these fruit types do not slip from the vine. Use a combination of indicators to determine ripeness. Look for (1). tendrils near the fruit stem to become brown and dry; (2) the fruit surface to become rough to the touch and the fruit color to become dull; (3) the bottom of the watermelon (where it lies on the soil) to change from a light green to a yellowish color. Assuring ripe honeydew melons can be achieved by placing the melon in a bag with ripening apples or tomatoes. The latter will release ethylene gas which will complete the ripening process.

Select melon varieties that will ripen under your conditions. Short season types ripen between 65 and 75 days. Full season types ripen around 85 days.

Common problems 
Environmental

Poor fruit set could be due to improper pollination, very hot weather or water stress. Pollination may be hindered by cold rain and cloudy weather.

Tasteless melons could be due to dark, cloudy weather, or disease.

The first blossoms often drop off muskmelon plants but this is not a problem. The first flowers to appear on the vines are male. The female flowers, which open later, have a swelling at the base that forms the fruit (the ovary). After bees pollinate these female flowers, the fruit develops!

Insect

There are a few insects that occasionally attack melons. Squash bugs feed on foliage and can harm young plants. Squash vine borers can kill plants as they tunnel through the vines. Wilting vines will probably be the first symptoms you will notice. Striped cucumber beetles damage plants by eating leaves as well as stems and fruit. They are also a potential vector of bacterial wilt.

Disease

Melon seedlings are susceptible to damping off especially when planted into cold wet soils. In some years bacterial wilt can cause wilt and decline of cucumber plants. Powdery mildew, a fungal disease that causes powdery white spots to form on leaves and vines can infect melons. Look for resistant varieties if this disease has been a problem in the past. Several fungal leaf spot and fruit rot diseases can affect melons. Damage can include brown spots, tattered holes in leaves, sunken brown lesions on vines, and rotted fruit. To avoid these diseases do not grow melons in an area where any member of the squash family has been grown for 3-4 years. Reduce moisture on leaves by providing plants with proper space, controlling weeds, and using drip irrigation or soaker hose instead of sprinkler irrigation. Remove severely infected plants from the garden. At the end of the season, till in plant residue or remove plant debris if infection was severe.

MBEGU BORA ZA MIHOGO

KILIMO CHA MIHOGO na KANGETA KILIMO

                              

KILIMO BORA CHA MUHOGO                                                  

Zao la muhogo ni  muhimu sana kwa Tanzania zaidi kwa wakulima wadogo wenye kipato cha chini. Wakulima wengi huchanganya zao la muhogo na mazao mengine kama vile kunde, mbaazi, njugumawe, n.k. Umuhimu wa zao hili ni kutupatia chakula na wakati mwingine kwa biashara. Kwa kanda ya kusini muhogo ni chakula kikuu ambacho kinachukua asilimia 75 ya chakula kwa maeneo yote ya mikoa ya pwani

Muhogo hustawi vizuri katika maeneo yaliyopo kwenye maeneo ya mita 0 – 1500 kutoka usawa wa bahari. Vile vile muhogo hustawi vizuri kwenye aeneo yanayopata mvua ya wastani wa mm 750  - mm1200 kwa mwaka. Muhogo hustawi vizuri kwenye ardhi ya kichanga. Vili vile zao la muhogo ni maarufu sana kwa uvumilivu wa hali ya ukame.

MBEGU BORA ZA MUHOGO

     Mpaka sasa hivi kuna aina mbili za mbegu bora ambazo zimathibitishwa kwa wakulima. Mbegu hizi huvumilia magonjwa, (batobato na matekenya), pia huzaa sana ukilinganisha na mbegu za kienyeji

 i. Naliendele/Mkuranga one
 Hii uzaa zaidi ya tani 19 kwa mwaka kwa hector moja na inaweza kuvunwa kuanzia miezi  9 tangu ipandwe

 ii .Kiroba -  
Huzaa tani 25 – 30  kwa hekta moja, na inaweza kuvunwa kuanzia miezi 9 toka ipandwe.

MBINU BORA ZA KILIMO CHA MUHOGO

·        UANDAAJI WA SHAMBA

Shamba liandaliwe kabla ya msimu wa kuanza. Uandaaji wa shamba bora hufuata hatua zifuatazo:

- Kufyeka shamba

- Kung’a na kuchoma visiki

- Kulima na kutengeneza matuta

 UCHAGUZI WA MBEGU BORA ZA KUPANDA

Mbegu zinatakiwa zisiwe na magojwa yeyote, pia chagua mashina ambayo yamekomaa vizuri

UPANADAJI

· Kuna njia tatu zaupandaji wa muhogo:

1.  Kulaza ardhini (Horizontal)
2.  Kusimamisha wima (Vertcal)
3. Kuinamisha (Inclined/Slunted)

UREFU WA KIPANDE CHA SHINA CHA KUPANDA:

Inashauriwa urefu uwe sm 30; lakini urefu wa kipande cha kupanda unategemea sana idadi ya macho yaliyopo kwenye hicho kipande, inashauriwa kipande kiwe na macho (4– 6).

NAFASI YA KUPANDA:

Kwa upandaji wa shamba muhogo tupu, shina hadi shina ni mita 1 na mstari hadi mstari ni mita 1.Kwa shamba la mchanganyiko na mazao mengine, inategemeana na zao linalochanganywa; mstari hadi mstari ni mita 2 – mita 4 na shina hadi shina ni mita

    PALIZI:

Palizi ya kwanza ifanyike mapema (mwezi 1) baada ya kupanda ili kuepukana na

   maguguyanayochipua haraka baada ya mvua kunyesha. Ndani ya miezi minne ya mwanzo mihogo haitakiwi kuwa    namagugu ili kuepuka ushindni wa mahitaji muhimu (mwanga, mbolea, maji, n.k) kati ya muhugo na magugu

   Palizi hufanyika kwa kutumi jebe la mkono au dawa ya kuuwa magugu.

  Wakati mwingine udhibiti wa magugu kufanyika kwa kutumia majani kwa kutandazwa juu ya udongo.

    Plaizi hufanyika mara 2 – 3 hadi muhugo kukomaa.

 UVUNAJI:

Mihogo inaweza kuanza kuvunwa baada ya miezi 9 – 12 tangu kupandwa. Inashauriwa kuvuna katika katika kipindi cha jua; kwani wakati wa mvua kiwango cha wanga kwenye muhogo hupungua.

 USINDIKAJI BORA

Usindikaji bora wa muhogo unafanyika kwa sababu kuu mbili:

-   Kurahisisha/kuharakisha ukaushaji

-   Kuondoa sumu (cyanide) ilyoko kwenye baadhi ya aina za  mihogo

-   Kuongeza ubora wa unga utokanao muhogo wenyewe.

Njia bora za usindikaji

1. - Kwa kutumia mashine aina ya Grater

Hii hutoa chembechembe laini za muhogo, ambazo baadae hukamuliwa kwa kutumia kifaa kingine kiitwacho “presser” ili kuondo sumu iliyoko kwenye muhogo. Mashine hii hutumika hususani kwa muhogo mchungu.

1. - Kwa kutumia mashine aina ya chipper

-  Mashine hii hutoa vipande vidogo vidogo (chips). Mashine hii hutumika hasa hasa kwa ajili ya mihogo mitamu/baridi.

• MATUMIZI YA MUHOGO

Muhogo unaweza kupikwa wenyewe kama chakula au kutengeneza unga

- Unga wa muhogo unaweza kutengeneza vitu vyotekama vinavyotengenezwa na unga

wa ngano kama vile biskuti, chapatti, maandazi, chichili, keki n.k

Pia muhogo huweza kutumika viwandani kutengeneza bidhaa nyingine kama vile wanga.

 MAGONJWA NA WADUDU WAHARIBIFU

Kuna magonjwa mawili ambayo ni muhimu sana na yanapunguza uzalishaji wa zao la muhogo.

a) Ugonjwa wa Matekenya au Ugonjwa wa michirizi ya kahawi katika    muhogo

Ugonjwa huu ni maarufu kwenye sehemu zenye miinuko iliyo na urefu  chini ya mita 300 na unapatikana kidogo sana kwenye miinuko ya mita 500 na kuendelea ambako uenezaji wake wa kawaida hautokei kabisa.

 Visababishi:

Matokeo ya uchunguzi wa awali unaonyesha kwamba ugonjwa huu ulienezwa na mdudu mweuupe au inzi mweupe (whitefly) mwenye mabawa madogo.

Dalili za Ugonjwa

Sehemui zote za muhogo zinaweza kuonyesha dalili za uambukizo wa ugonjwa huu lakini ni vipengele gani vya ugonjwa na ni kwa kiwango gani hutegemea hali ya mzingira, hatua ya kukua kwa mmea kwa kulinganisha.

-    Kwenye majani

Dalili ya kwanza: Chlorosis rangi ya njani hutokea kwanza pembezoni mwa vena ndogo baadae huathtiri vena ndogo zaidi na inaweza kuwa doa (chlorosis) la rangi ya njano.

Dalili ya pili: Rangi ya njano ambayo haihusishwi vizuri na vena isipokuwa katika mbaka ya mviringo kati ya vena kuu kwenye hatua za mwisho za ugonjwa sehemu kubwa ya lamin inaweza isiathirike, majni yenye ugonjwa hubaki yameshikilia kwenye mmea kwa muda wa wiki kadhaa.

-    Kwenye shina

Huonekana kwenye tisu ya shina changa la kijani, jeraha la zambarau au kahawia linweza kuoneakan nje na kuingia ndani hadi kwenye gamba baaada ya kubandua gome la nje. Pia jeraha la nekrotiki kwenye kovu la shina hutokea baada ya majni kudondoka kutokana na umri wa mmea. Tawi/shina hufa kuanzia kwenye nch kuelekea chini na kusababisha kufa kwa mmea wote.

-     Kwenye mizizi

Kwa kawaida hutokea baada ya dalili za majani na wakati wa kipindi kati ya uambukizo na kufa, amabpo kifo cha mizizi hutokea kuanzia miezi 5 toka kupandwa. Dalili za mizizi zinabadilika nje ya mizizi na zinaweza kuwa kama kizuizimwanga au shimo au kufa kwenye gome.

Tishu inayo zunguka mshins ina doa la rangi ya kahawia au nyeusi. Wakati mwingine mizizi huonekana kuwa yenye afya kwa nje bila kuwa na matatizo yaliyowazi au bila kupungua ukubwa, lakini ikikatwa huonekana kufainakufa au rangi ya njano.

Uambukizaji na ueneaji

Ugonjwa wa CBSD unaambukizwa kwa njia ya vipandikizi vinavyotokea kwenye mimea iliyoathiriwa vinavyosababisha mmea kuonesha kwenye majani dalili za ugonjwa.

Kwa kuwa muhogo kwa kawaida huzalishwa kwa njia ya vipandikizi ugonjwa huu huingizwa kwenye sehemu mpya zilizopandwa kwa kutumia vipandikizi vilivyoambukizwa.

Kwa aina zinazovumilia sana kwenye hali za mabondeni, dalili mbaya sana hutokea wakati ugonjwa ukigundulika  katika hatua za mwanzo.

Uchunguzi umeonesha kwamba Bemisia afer ni mdudu/kisababishi ambacho ndicho kinachohusiana na maendeleo ya hivi karibuni kuhusu uhamishaji wa visababishi kama “ipomovirus”. Mara nyingine inaonesha nzi weupe (White flies) na kutokana na hali hiyo bado uchunguzi unaendelea zaidi.

Udhibiti/Kuzuia

ü  Njia ya msingi ya kuzuia/kudhibiti ugonjwa wa CBSD ni kuchagua mbegu kutoka kwenye mimea isiyo na dalili ya ugonjwa.

ü  Ubora wa mashina unahitaji kutunzwa kwa kuendelea kuchagua na kuangamiza ile iliyoambukizwa ambayo inaonekana wakati wa kuchipua.

ü  Hakikisha kuwa unapanda mbegu bora za mhogo ambazo zinastahimili uambukizo wa magonjwa.

ü  Hakikisha kuwa wakati wa uvunaji uonapo hali ya kuoza kwa mizizi ya mhogo ichome moto ili kutokomeza ugonjwa huo.

ü  Kuelewa dalili za ugonjwa wa CBSD kwa ajili ya kuchukua tahadhari ya kutokomeza ugonjwa huu.

ü  Hakikisha kuwa unaendelea kutunza mbegu bora zinazoonekana kuvumilia magonjwa sana.

ü  Hakikisha kuwa shamba la mhogo linakuwa safi kwa ajili ya kupunguza visababishi vya ugonjwa wa CBSD     

b) Ugonjwa wa batobato au ukoma wa majani

 Ni ugonjwa ambao ulienezwa kwamara ya kwanza hapa Tanzani mwaka 1894, na baadae uliripotiwa katika nchi nyingine nyingi za Afrika Mashriki, Afrika Magharibi na Afrika ya Kati na sasa unafahamika kuwa upo maeneo yote yanayolimwa muhogo Afrika.

Katika viwango vya kuwepo kwa ugonjwa wa CMD na katika uwingi wa hasara zinazopatikana kutokana na CMD ni kati ya 15% – 20%. Hii ni sawa na tani milioni 15 – 18 zikilinganishwa na makadirio ya shirika la kilimo na chakula  duniani ya tani milioni 85 ya mwaka 1997.

Visababishi

Tangu ugonjwa wa CMD ulipoenezwa kwa mara ya kwanza, visababishi vilichukuliwa  kuwa ni virusi kwa sababu ya kukosekana kisababishi kingine. Kwa hiyo kutokana na kuwa mtazamo huu unalingana na matokeo ya uchunguzi wa awali inaonesha kwamba ugonjwa huu huenezwa na nzi mweupe (white fly).

Pia uchunguzi wa mara kwa mara umesababisha utambuzi wa virusi vya aina mbalimbali na tofauti kama ifuatavyo:

·  Ugonjwa wa batobato unaosababishwa na virusi vya Africa cassava mosaic virus

· Ugonjwa wa batobato unaosababishwa na virusi vya Afrika mashariki (East Africa cassava mosaic virus)

·   Ugonjwa wa batobato unaosababishwa na virusi vya India (Indian cassava mosaic virus)    

Dalili za ugonjwa wa batobato
(Cassava Mosaic Disease-CMD)

Dalili hutokea kwenye jani lenye uwaraza wa michirizi ambazo huathiriSehemu zisizokunjamana za kutoleahewa hufahamika katikhatua za    Awali za ukuaji wa jani.

Sehemu za kloritiki hushindwa kutanuka hadi mwisho, hivyo mvutano unaji-tokeza kutokana na ukuaji usiolingana na jani amajani madogo yaliyoharibika.            

Majani yaliyoathirika sana hupungua ukubwa wa umbo, na hujikunja na kujitenga kwa

Sehemu zenye rangi ya njano na zenye rangi ya kawaida ya kijani.

Mmea hudumaa na majani machanga hupatwa na uvimbe.

Kloritiki ya jani inaweza kuwa ya rangi ya manjano nyepesi au rangi inayokaribia nyeupe

 yenye kijani kidogo au kupauka kuliko ilivyo kawaida.

Uambukizaji na uenezaji

Ukoma wa mhogo huambukizwa kwenye vipandikizi vya shina ambavyo kwa kawaidahutumika kuzalishia mmea.Pia huenezwa na inzi mweupe (white fly) aitwae Bemisia tabaci G. Aina mbili za inzi auMbu hao Bemisia (Preisner Hhosny na Aleorodius disperses R) pia huambukiza mihogo katika nchi za Afrika na IndiaUsambazaji wa vipandikizi unaweza kusababisha kuenea kwa ugonjwa wa CMD katik  Maeneo mapya.             

 UHIBITI NA KUZUIA

-Hatua ya msingi ya kuzuia ugonjwa wa CMD ni kwa kuchagua vipandikizi kutoka kwaMmea ambao hauna uambukizo wowote. -Ubora wa mashina unahitajika kwa kuendelea kuchagua na         kuangamiza kwa kung’oa ile Mihogo iliyoambukizwa ambayo inaonekana wakati wa kuchipua

 -Hakikisha kuwa wakati wa kuvuna mihogo kwa ile iliyoathirika na ugonjwa wa CMDinaangamizwa kwa kuchomwa moto. -Hakikisha kuwa unatunza shamba na kuwa safi ili kupunguza wadudu waenezao CMD.

-Hakikisha una elimu ya kutosha juu ya dalili za ugonjwa wa <CMD>

·    
 WADUDU NA WANYAMA WAHARIBIFU

       1)Cassava Mealy Bug (CMB)

Wadudu hawa hushambulia kwenye ncha za mashina/matawi kwenye majani machanga. Athari zake ni kwamba majani yanadumaa na kujikusanya pamoja, hivyo basi kupunguza ukuaji wa mmea kwa ujumla. Vile vile urefu kati ya pingili na pingili huwa fupi sana. 
    

  2)Cassava Green Mites (CGM)
Wadudu hawa hushambulia majani mapya sehemu za chini. Madhara yake sio makubwa.

  

3)White Scales
Hawa ni weupe na hujishika kwenye shina na kufyonza maji kutoka kwenye mti wa muhogo. Vili vile wadudu hawa madhara yake sio muhimu. 

     4)Mchwa

Hawa hutafuna/hula mashina ya muhogo hasa wakati wa jua kali/kiangazi.

-   Wanyama waharibifu

Hawa hushambulia muhogo ukiwa shambani kwa kuula, kama vile nguruwe, panya, wezi, n.k

Udhibiti/Kuzuia

Kwa upande wa wadudu wanweza kudhibitiwa kwa njia zifuatazo:

ü  Kutumia dawa za kuulia wadudu kama duduall,farmerguld,ninja,karate,na zinginezo

ü  Kutumia wadudu marafiki wa wakulima

Kwa upande wa wanyama ni kuweka walinzi.

zao-la-muhogo-ni-muhimu-sana

-Hakikisha kuwa unatunza shamba na kuwa safi ili kupunguza wadudu waenezao .

-Hakikisha una elimu ya kutosha juu ya dalili za ugonjwa wa        <CMD>

USHAURI:usilime kabda hujaa andaa soko usiende shambani na matarajio makubwa zaidi ya kupata hela nyingi ukasahau changamoto zake( mavuno kidogo, hasara na muda), shambani kunahitaji uangalizi wa karibu sana na usijaribu kulima kwa simu hasa kama una watu wasio waaminifu watakuua kwa ugonjwa wa moyo. Pia hizo faida zinazopatiakana ni pale tu utakapo fata ushauri wa kitaalamu na ukaamua kwa dhati kufanya kilimo.

 TEMBELEA MAKALA ZANGU KWENYE MTANDAO KANGETAKILIMO

·         Kilimo cha mihongo na mazao yote ya nafaka kama ufuta mbaazi ,choroko,mahindi ,,nk

·         Kilimo cha vitunguu,pilipli,nyanya,matikiti, na mazao yote ya mbogamboga

·         Kilimo cha matunda kama mipesheni mipapai,michungwa,nk

·         Ufugaji wa kuku  wa kienyeji kisasa

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